To keep an orchid strong and healthy, it must receive several hours of light throughout the day. The ideal duration is 12-14 hours of natural or artificial light daily. Place the orchids where the orientation is east, but special care must be taken so that they never come in contact with direct sunlight, as they may cause burns to the leaves. We can control the lighting levels as follows:
\u2022 If the foliage is healthy, then the plant is dark green and the lighting is adequate.
\u2022 If the color of the foliage is too dark green or if the buds fall off, it is a sign that the light is not enough to meet its needs.
\u2022 If the leaves are light or yellow, it is a sign that they need less light.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Temperature<\/strong> Watering<\/strong> Lubrication<\/strong> Liquid compost COMPO for orchids<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ambient humidity<\/strong> Cultivation substrate<\/strong> Outdoor Calanthe Orchid<\/p>\n\n\n\n Proliferation<\/strong> Pots-Transplantation<\/strong> Blossom<\/strong> After flowering<\/strong> Enemies and diseases<\/strong>
The ideal growing temperature of most species is 15-27 oC during the day and 11-15 oC during the night. It is very important to have a temperature difference between day and night as this promotes the differentiation of flowering buds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Watering is the most important task for orchids grown in pots. As with aerophytes, excess moisture can be destructive to the plant. Stagnant water causes a lack of oxygen and provides fertile ground for the development of diseases, resulting in the death of the plant. The ideal frequency of watering is once a week, while the substrate should be kept dry between waterings and the draining water should not come into contact with the roots or the substrate.
The way to water an orchid is by immersing it for 5-10 minutes in lukewarm water. Then let it drain and dry well, making sure there is no stagnant water in the pot or on the saucer of the pot. Ideally they should be watered with rainwater that is not chlorinated, such as mains water.
Lack of water makes the leaves dull and the roots dehydrated and grayish while excessive irrigation causes browning of the roots and wilting of the leaves. Green and healthy roots are a sign of proper irrigation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
To fertilize your plants, use a special fertilizer suitable for orchids twice a month from March to October, especially when the plant has no flowers, to promote their flowering. In the winter and the period following the transplants, fertilization should be avoided. Finally, every 6 months, rinsing with water should be applied, so that salts do not accumulate in the culture medium. This process is done by pouring enough water on the substrate and letting it rinse well. Of course, let it dry and drain before it is placed in its final position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Most orchid species love moisture and need around 60 to 80 %. We can increase the humidity in the area where they are grown either by spraying them with water early in the morning, or by placing them on a tray with gravel and water without the roots coming into contact with it. In this case we make sure to fill the water in the tray. Proper ventilation with frequent renewal should not be neglected. A characteristic sign of lack of moisture is the deformation of the flowers and the curling of the leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Most orchid species, with a few exceptions, are epiphytic, meaning they grow in the air, resting on trees or rocks. Therefore, for their cultivation in pots, no soil is required, but depending on the species, we use a different culture medium. The most common substrate is pine or fir bark, while other substrates can be cork, coconut, gravel, peat, stones, etc. The most important criterion for choosing a substrate is to allow air to pass through the roots to breathe properly, but also not to impede the drainage of water, as this will cause the roots to lack oxygen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The best way to propagate the orchid is to divide the rhizome, a process that means that the flowering will be suspended for a long time. We provide the basis for the new plants that will emerge from the division, to be of sufficient size so that their growth is not delayed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is essential that the orchids are planted in specially designed pots for orchids that have holes and allow ventilation. Avoid placing them in pots or if they are placed, check them regularly so that they do not hold water. The ideal choice is the clay pots because they dry faster or the transparent ones that have drainage holes.
Transplanting is done to the orchids every 1-2 years and earlier only if the substrate is damaged. Orchids are never transplanted when they are in bloom or in the growing season. The procedure is as follows: Remove the plant and discard the old substrate. Then place the plant in the new pot and fill the gaps between the roots with the new substrate. Squeeze them a little carefully to stabilize the roots and water. If the roots come out, do not make any noise. These roots are called aerial and have some degree of photosynthetic ability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Most orchids bloom twice a year, while others only bloom once. The flowers last one to four weeks, except for Phalenopsis which lasts one to three months.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
After the flowering is completed, we cut the stem above the 2nd bud counting from below, while if there is no bud, we cut it lower. At the same time, we continue to provide him with all the cultivation care as before. The production of new roots and buds is a sign of a healthy plant. During this period without flowering, we normally apply fertilizer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/eshop.mystikos-kipos.gr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/article-3.1.jpg\")
The main enemies that infect orchids are granules, thrips and blackflies, while fungal diseases mainly affect the roots. In any case, we move the infected plant away from the rest and depending on the extent of the infection, we evaluate the way to fight them.
For the nightshade, we increase the humidity of the environment while at the same time we take care to spray with a preparation suitable for its control. The granules, in a small infestation, can be removed with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol, removing the local ones. Otherwise spray with a suitable insecticide. Thrips are controlled with a suitable insecticide. In any case, contact the local agronomists in your area, so that they can give you the appropriate solutions.
Finally, the fungal diseases that affect the root are more serious. If the infection is in the beginning, we remove the infected roots while if it has progressed, then the disease is difficult to fight.<\/p>\n